A Dodge Charger Daytona EV that will not start almost always points to a dead 12V auxiliary battery, not the 100.5 kWh main pack. The car goes completely unresponsive, no dash, no start chime, and the app may still report a full traction battery even though the car will not wake up. That is the classic tell that the problem sits downstream in the low-voltage system, not in the big battery under the floor.
The Daytona EV is Stellantis’s first EV muscle car, built on the STLA Large platform with a 400-volt architecture and serious horsepower. Underneath all the torque, it starts up exactly the same way every other EV does, off a small 12V battery that has nothing to do with the horsepower rating.
What is actually wrong when a Daytona EV will not start
As with any EV, the 400-volt traction pack that powers the Daytona’s dual motors does not run the low-voltage electronics directly. A separate 12V battery handles door locks, the dash, infotainment, and the control modules that bring the high-voltage system online when you press start. If that 12V cannot hold enough charge, the car simply will not wake, regardless of how much energy is sitting in the main pack.
Forum owners have flagged a specific frustration with this car: when the 12V goes down, the trunk release stops working right along with everything else, because it is electric. That is a bigger deal here than on most cars, since the 12V jump points and, on some builds, the emergency trunk access both live inside or near the trunk itself.
Where the 12V battery lives, and the trunk problem
The 12V starter battery on the Charger Daytona EV is located in the trunk, on the driver’s side, tucked behind or under a side trim panel. For jump starting, Stellantis provides remote posts under the hood so you do not need trunk access at all. Locate the jump posts there, connect a jump pack’s positive clamp to the positive post and the negative clamp to the negative post, and give it a moment before trying to start.
The complication shows up if you need the trunk with a fully dead 12V, because the electric trunk release will not respond without power. The workaround is to jump the car first using the under-hood posts to get enough voltage back into the system, then use the normal trunk release once the car has power again. Exact post locations and any manual trunk release procedure can vary by model year and trim, so confirm the details against your owner’s manual before you are standing in a dark apartment lot trying to sort it out.
Symptom-cause quick reference
| Symptom | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Completely dark, no dash, no chime, trunk will not open | 12V battery fully dead | Jump at the under-hood remote posts |
| App shows full traction battery but car will not wake up | 12V is the actual problem, not the main pack | Skip the charge port, jump the 12V |
| Car starts then dies again within a day or two | 12V nearing end of life | Replace the 12V battery |
| Trunk will not open and car is completely dead | Electric trunk release has no power | Jump the 12V first, then use the trunk release |
| Car was driving normally then lost power on the road | Traction pack low on charge | Mobile charge delivery, not a jump |
What to do when stranded in the Puget Sound
The Daytona EV draws an enthusiast crowd, and that means it shows up in some predictable spots when it strands someone.
Overnight street and garage parking. A performance car that sits for a few days between drives is exactly the kind of use pattern that lets a marginal 12V finally give out. If the car started fine last week and is silent now, start with the 12V.
Wet apartment storage. A Daytona in a Marysville or Tacoma apartment garage that does not get plugged in for two weeks will quietly drain its 12V. The Pacific Northwest’s cool, humid environment accelerates that drain on a battery that has been through two or more winters.
Freeway on-ramps and canyon roads. If the issue is genuinely an empty traction pack rather than a 12V fault, a jump will not help. That is an out-of-charge recovery instead.
Our non-Tesla EV rescue service covers the full Stellantis EV lineup including the Charger Daytona, and operators carry both jump gear and mobile charging so they can tell on-site which one you actually need. For more on why the 12V matters this much on any EV, see what happens when an EV 12V battery dies and our EV 12V battery replacement guide.
When to call us
If your Charger Daytona EV is dark anywhere in the Puget Sound, from Bellevue to Tacoma, operators across the metro carry the right jump equipment for the under-hood posts and can reach you without a flatbed. The operator quotes you before starting.
Call (206) 202-7018 to reach a local operator.
Frequently asked questions
How do you jump start a Dodge Charger Daytona EV?
Use the remote jump posts under the hood rather than trying to access the 12V battery in the trunk. Connect a jump pack’s positive clamp to the positive post and the negative clamp to the negative post, then wait a moment before starting. Confirm exact post locations against your owner’s manual.
Why will the trunk not open when the Charger Daytona EV is dead?
The trunk release is electric, and the 12V battery itself lives inside the trunk. With a fully dead 12V, there is no power to trigger the release. Jump the car using the under-hood remote posts first to restore power, then use the normal trunk release.
Does the Daytona EV’s horsepower affect the 12V system?
No. The Scat Pack’s performance comes entirely from the 400-volt traction pack and dual motors. The 12V system that starts the car and runs the low-voltage electronics is a separate circuit, and it behaves the same on every trim.
Can the Daytona EV have a no-start with a full traction battery?
Yes. If the app shows a healthy range but the car will not wake at all, the traction pack is not the problem, the 12V auxiliary battery is. Trying to charge the main pack wastes time. Jump the 12V first and see if the car responds normally.
What does mobile rescue cost for a Daytona EV?
A 12V jump is typically less than a standard tow, and a mobile charge delivery that adds 10 to 20 miles of range is often comparable to or less than a tow. The operator quotes you before starting.
Call (206) 202-7018 to reach a local operator.